Stitch-down welt-shoe.



W. S. SHAFT.

STITCH-DOWN WELT SHOE.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE I. I916.

1,293,217. Patented Feb. 4, 1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

WITNESSES ATTORN EY W. S. SHAFT.

STITCH-DOWN WELT SHOE. APPLICATION FILED JUNE I. 1916.

1,293,217. Patented Feb. 4, 1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2- JQ L.

INVENTOH WITNESSES ATTORNEY WIIiLIS S SHAIT, 0F FARIIBAULT, MINNESOTA.

STITCH-DOWN WELT-SHOE.

Application filed June 1, 1916. Serial No. 101,128.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it' known that I, WILLIS S. SHAFI, a

citizen of the -United States, residing at.

Faribault, in the county of Rice and State of Minnesota, have inventedcertain new and useful Improvements in Stitch-Down Welt-Shoes,

of which the following is a specification.

p My present invention relates to stitchdown welt shoes, wherein theuppers are secured to the soles by stitching the former adjacent thelower mar ins thereof, to the latter, exteriorly, with t e aid of asuitable welt.

The principal objects of my invention are to provide a shoe embodying alining which,

in the placing and during use, will not wrinkle, become loose or out ofplace; and, to provide, when desired, a box toe and counter efiicientlyheld in place by means utilized in the securing of said lining.

Further objects of the invention are to provide for the manufacture ofshoes, of the character described, where the lining is more effectivelyheld in place than in shoes now in common use; to so dispose the liningwith respect to portions of the sole that the material adjacent thelower mar in of the lining is held in place partly by the weight of theperson wearing the shoe, and coming upon the sole section; and, toconstruct the portion of the sole, with which the lining, box

i will also prevent the toe and counter, has engagement, of one ply ofmaterial thereby avoiding chafing which otherwise might cause the liningor other elements to work loose said arrangement and construction ofparts squeaking which is caused by the relative movement of the in-- nersole with respect to the outer sole in shoes where their soles areseparable.

Still further objects of the invention are to reduce the costof'manufacture of the shoes, byso constructing the box toe and counterthat they may be eflectivelysecured in place at the same time the liningis fastened in connection withthe sole section, and to so secure theboxtoe and counter to the sole section, avoiding the extension ofthe lowermarginal portions of such elements outwardlyof the shoe upper,-therebyroviding a shoe of the character descr bed which is neat in ap earance.

Other objects of t e invention will appear Specification of LettersPatent.

from the sole. The

. shoes, the marginal edge of the u 18 is disposed within the marglnaedge of Patented Feb. 4%, 1919.

in the following detailed description, taken in connection with theaccompanying draw.- in which drawings:

Figure 1 is a perspective View of a shoe partly constructed inaccordance with my invention, a large portion of the. shoe upper beingcut away to show details.

Fig. 2 is a partial transverse sectional view through the heel portionof the shoe.

Fig. 3 is a similar portion of the shoe.

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 2through the instep portion of theshoe.

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a counter formed'in accordance with myinvention.

-' Fig. 6 is a similar View showing the box toe.

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of a sole section.

In the drawings, where similar characters refer to similar partsthroughout the several views, the shoe is shown as comprising a sole 8which may be made up of a plurality of sections 9-10-11; and the upper12; lining 13; and, box toe 14 and counter 15 if desired. A suitableWelt 16 is also provided to secure the upper 12 to the sole 8.

The sole section 9 has its peripheral edge split as at 17 to provide anupper flap 18, with a way 19 therebeneath. It is to be understood that,in providing the way 19 no view through the toe lngs forming a part ofthis specification, and

material of the sole-section is removed, as is common practice inchanneling, but the material of which the sole section is composed, ismerely split horizontally a short distance inwardly from the margin, theway 19 being provided as the knife blade moves about the periphery ofthe sole section. For the purpose of adapting this section forstitch-down the sole section.

By the formation of way 19, the lower marginal portion of the lining 13may be bentinwardly and folded upon itself,

providing plies 20 and 21, such folded portions fitting into the saidway. The margin of the lowermost ply 21 lies exteriorly of the spaceinclosed by the major portion of the lining, but there is no materialportion of the lining beyond the margin of the upper flap 18. By

- this disposition of the liniiilg, the weight 05' e so e sec ion theuser of the shoe upon tion to the procedure in placing a lining in willtend to hold the lining in place and no separate insole is required.This construction avoids chafing which otherwise might cause the liningor other elements to work loose from the sole, and squeakmg 1sprevented" since there is no insole to move relatively to the outersole.

. As to the counter 15, the lower marginal portion is bent inwardly asat 22 and folded upon itself providing plies 23 and 24. This lowermarginal portion may. fit nicely between the folds 20 and 21 of thelining at the heel portion of the shoe. The box toe 14 is also providedwith plies 25 and 26, sim larly formed, and fit nicely between the pliesof the lower marginal Iportlon of the linlng 13 at the toe portion 0 theshoe.

To secure either the lining, box toe or counter, or all of theseelements to the sole section 9, means 27, such as st tching 1s passedthrough the lowermost plies 21-24 and 26 of their respect1ve elementsand through the sole section 9 to the bottom thereof. The means 27 is sodisposed that its upper portion comes wholly or partly within the way 19so that no material portion of the' lower margin of these elements 13-44or 15 projects onto the main body portion of the sole section 9, beyondthe' margin of upper flap 18.

In the shaping and placing of the lining 13, it is forced into the way19 so as to prevent wrinkling. This is in contradlstinca channel formedby the removal of material from the sole section, where it easilybecomes wrinkled either in the making, or 1n use. Because of the sharpfolds in the lming, as disclosed in the drawings, the lining is at onceshaped and holds its shape by aid of the weight which comes upon it andthe securing means 27.

Referring now to the upper, its lower marginal portion is turnedoutwardly and may be first secured by means 28, such as stitching, tothe sole section 9. This marginal portion may then be secured to thesole and the various sections 9-10 and 11, bound together by stitching29, the welt 16 being used to reinforcethe shoe and give finish thereto.

If desired, a filler 30, may be placed beneath the sole section 9 andwith its margin within the margins of said sole section and flap 18, thesecuring means 27 being in close proximity to the margin of the filler.

It will be appreciated that the-finish of a shoe constructed accordingto my invention is neat, because no portion of the lining, box toe orcounter extends underneath the outturned portion of the upper 12. Thesole section 9 serves as an insole and gives body to the sole 8, whilethe securing means 27 is not exposed, yet may be easily placed in themanufacture of the shoe.

Changes in details may be made without departing from the spirit of myinvention;

but,

I claim:

1. In a stitch-down shoe, the combination of a sole section having itsperiphery split at the toe portion to provide upper and lower flaps anda way therebetween, a box toe having its lower marginal portion. bentinwardly and folded upon itself, the said with the plies completelyreceived within.

said way, a box toe having its lower marginal portion bent inwardly andfolded upon itself, the said folded portion thereof lying within thefolds of said lining, and means passing through the lowermost plies ofsaid lining and box toe through the said sole section to the bottomthereof for securing said marginal portions of said lining and box toein said way, andan upper to be brought down over the lining and secured.to the sole section to thus cover the folded marginal portion of thelining.

3. In a stitch-down shoe, the combination of a sole section having itsperiphery split at the heel portion to provide upper and lower flapswith a way therebetween, a

counter having its lower marginal portion bent inwardly and folded uponitself, the said folded portion being shaped to fit and be housedentirely within said way, and stitching passing through the lower flapof the lowermost plyof said counter and through said sole section to thebottom thereof, for securing said marginal portions of-said counter insaid way.

4. In a stitch-down shoe, the combination of a sole section having itsperiphery split. at the heel portion to provide upper and lower flapswith a way therebetween, a lining having its lower marginal portionfolded upon itself with the plies shaped to be received and entirelyhoused within said way, a counter. having its lower marginal portionbent inwardly and folded upon itself, the said folded portion of saidcounter lying within the folds of said lining, to be also entirelywithin the way, and stitching passing through the lowermost plies ofsaid lining and counter, and through the said sole section to the bottomthereof for securing said marginal portions of said lining and counterin said way. a

5. In a stitch-down shoe, the eombination Y heel portion of the shoe,the folded plies ofii of a sole section having its periphery split toprovide upper and lower flaps with a way therebetween, a lining havingits lower marginal portion folded upon itself and ly-- folded uponitself,'tl1e said folded portion lying within the folds of said liningat the said lining as well as the box toe and counter being received andhoused entirely within the way, and stitching passing through thelowermost plies of said lining, box toe and counter, and through saidsole section to the bottom thereof for securing the said marginalportions of said lining, box toe and counter insaid way. a

'6. In a stitch-down shoe, the combination of a sole section'having itsperiphery split to provide upper 'and lower flaps and a wa therebetween,the marginal edge of said upper flap lying within the marginal edge ofsaid lower flap, a lining having its lower marginal portion folded uponitself and lying-within said way, a box toe having its lower marginalportlonbent inwardly and folded upon itself, the said folded portionlying within the folds ofsaid lining at the sole portion of the shoe, acounter having its lower marginal ortion bent inwardly and folded uponitself, the said folded portion lying within the folds of said lining atthe heel portion of the shoe, said parts be- .ing so'arranged that thefolded edges of the ening member with the folded several members arereceivedand housed entirely within the way and are within the confinesoutlined by the edge of the upper flap, means passing through thelowermost plies of said lining, box toe and counter, and

through said sole section to the bottom there-- offor securing'the saidmarginal portions of said lining, box toe and counterin said way, anupper having its lower marginal portion turned outwardly, and means forsecuring said outturned portion of said upper to said sole outwardly ofsaid upper i That improvement in the manufacture of stitch-down shoeswhich comprises first splitting the sole at its peripheral edge toprovide upper and. lower flaps, folding the marginal edge of a liningoutwardly upon the main portion, placing the folded edge of the liningwithin the way formed between the upper and lower flaps, shaping astifi'ening member to have a portion thereof bent and folded outwardly'to correspond with the folding of the linlng, placing said stiffortionincased entirely within the way of t e sole and received within thefolds of the lining, and then stitching through the outturned ply of thestilfening member and thelining' and through the lower flap of the soleto thus secure the lining and stiffening member fixedly in place withrespect to the fold. In testimony whereof I aflix my signature inpresence of two witnesses.

WILLIS S. SHAFT. Witnesses: v

A. M. SIMPSON, LOUISE PHONE-T.

